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You know that moment when you pull on a pair of jeans in the morning, and by 2 p.m. they’ve stretched out so much you could smuggle a rotisserie chicken in the waistband? That was me. Every single pair of affordable denim I owned did that. So I did what any reasonable person would do: I bought five pairs each from Old Navy and Target, wore them for three months, washed them repeatedly, and kept notes like a weirdo.

Here’s what nobody tells you about cheap jeans: the problem isn’t the price. It’s the fabric weight, the elastane percentage, and the construction. Get those wrong, and a $20 pair costs you more in the long run than a $100 pair. Get them right, and you’ll look better than people wearing designer denim.

This is the comparison I wish existed before I wasted money on jeans that died after one season.

Fabric Weight and Stretch: The Real Difference

Most people pick jeans based on how they look in the fitting room mirror. That’s the mistake. The mirror lies. What matters is what happens after hour five, after the first wash, after three months of wear.

Old Navy’s core denim line uses fabric that averages 10-12 oz per square yard. That’s midweight. Their Rockstar and OG Straight styles typically contain 1-2% elastane, sometimes 3% in the “sculpt” fits. Target’s Universal Thread denim runs lighter, usually 8-10 oz, with 2-4% elastane. Wild Fable, Target’s juniors line, goes even lighter and stretchier.

Here’s the thing about elastane: it’s a trade-off. More stretch means more comfort on day one, but it also means faster bagging out. Every percentage point of elastane you add is a percentage point of recovery you lose. My Universal Thread High-Rise Skinny Jeans ($25) felt amazing in the dressing room. By hour four, the knees had little pouches. By wash ten, the waistband measured almost two inches larger than when I bought them.

The Old Navy OG Straight ($40, but perpetually on sale for around $25) held its shape noticeably better. The 1% elastane version barely stretched out at all, even after a full day. The trade-off: they’re stiffer on day one. You have to break them in.

What Fabric Weight Actually Means for You

Heavier denim (11 oz and up) drapes better, holds a cuff, and fades more naturally over time. Lighter denim (under 10 oz) feels more like leggings and tends to wrinkle behind the knees. If you want jeans that look like denim and not jeggings, you want fabric weight above 10 oz.

The Elastane Sweet Spot

For most people, 1-2% elastane is the sweet spot. You get enough stretch for comfort without sacrificing recovery. Above 3%, and you’re buying stretch pants, not jeans. Below 1%, and you’re in raw denim territory, which is a whole different commitment.

Fit Consistency: Why Target Sizes Are All Over the Place

I bought the same size in five different Target styles. Three fit. Two were wildly off. One pair of Universal Thread Wide-Leg Jeans in a 28 waist measured 30 inches. Another pair in the same size, same style, different wash, measured 27.5. That’s a 2.5-inch variance in what should be identical jeans.

Old Navy wasn’t perfect either, but the variance was tighter. Their sizing runs more consistent across washes within the same style. The bigger issue with Old Navy is their vanity sizing: a size 28 fits more like a 29 or 30. Once you know your Old Navy size, though, you can order online with reasonable confidence.

Target’s Universal Thread line is manufactured across multiple factories, and it shows. The quality control just isn’t there. If you’re buying Target denim, you need to try on every single pair, even if you already own that exact style in a different wash.

Size Charts Are Fiction

Ignore the size charts on both websites. They’re aspirational. Instead, check the reviews for people with your body type. Search for “runs large” or “runs small” in the review section. That’s the only sizing data that matters.

The Petite and Tall Problem

Old Navy wins this category outright. They offer petite, tall, and regular inseams across most styles, usually in 2-inch increments from 28 to 36. Target’s Universal Thread has some short and long options, but the selection is thinner, and many styles only come in a single 30-inch inseam. If you’re under 5’4″ or over 5’9″, Old Navy is the clear winner.

Price Comparison: What You Actually Pay

Both brands play the fake sale game. Old Navy’s list prices are meaningless — the OG Straight is “$40” but I’ve never seen it above $25. Target’s Universal Thread runs $25-$35 with occasional 20% off promotions. Here’s the real breakdown after three months of tracking prices:

The price difference is negligible when both are on sale. You’re not saving money buying Target denim. You’re getting lighter fabric and weaker construction for roughly the same price.

Failure Modes: How These Jeans Actually Die

Every pair of cheap jeans dies the same way. The question is how long it takes.

Target Universal Thread failure timeline: The inner thigh fabric pills by wash five. The waistband elastic gives out by wash fifteen. The stitching at the belt loops starts unraveling around month two. By month four, the jeans look tired. By month six, they’re yard work pants.

Old Navy failure timeline: The dye fades faster than premium denim, especially in dark washes. The knees start to show wear around month four with regular use. The buttonhole stitching can loosen. But the fabric itself holds up. My Old Navy pair from this test is still wearable at month three and looks better than the Target pair did at month one.

The biggest failure mode I see with both brands: people buy the wrong rise. Rise determines where the waistband sits, and if you get it wrong, nothing else matters. Low-rise jeans on someone with a long torso create constant pulling and gaping. High-rise jeans on someone with a short torso hit the ribs and create weird bunching. Know your rise measurement before you buy.

When NOT to Buy Either Brand

If you wear jeans more than four days a week, skip both and buy something in the $80-$120 range. Brands like Everlane, Madewell, and Levi’s Premium line use better fabric that lasts two to three times longer. The cost per wear ends up lower. Cheap denim is a false economy for heavy users.

If you want raw denim or selvedge, neither brand offers anything close. And if you need jeans for actual work — construction, gardening, anything abrasive — neither Old Navy nor Target denim will survive. Buy Carhartt or Dickies instead.

My Verdict: Who Should Buy What

Here’s the compressed version after three months and roughly 60 wears across ten pairs of jeans.

Buy Old Navy if: you want the best fabric quality per dollar, you need petite or tall inseams, you prefer a stiffer denim that breaks in over time, or you want jeans that still look decent after six months. The OG Straight at $25 on sale is the best value in affordable denim right now, assuming you can handle the vanity sizing.

Buy Target if: you need something trendy for one season, you’re between sizes and want maximum stretch, or you’re shopping in-store and can try on multiple pairs to find the one that actually fits. The Universal Thread Wide-Leg in a dark wash is the best Target option, but check the stitching before you buy.

For most people, most of the time, Old Navy wins. The denim is heavier, the construction is more consistent, and the price is the same or lower. Target’s denim has become a fast-fashion product: designed to look good on the hanger and in the first Instagram photo, not to survive actual life.

That rotisserie chicken waistband problem? It still happens with Old Navy’s stretchier styles. But the OG Straight with 1% elastane? It held its shape from morning to night, every single wear. That’s the pair I’m keeping.